bubbles

Between songs the cacophony of Bourbon Street invaded the serenity of dixieland jazz at the little club on the corner of Toulouse Street. The clean notes would fade, a smattering of clapping would announce the small crowd's pleasure at hearing these incredibly accomplished musicians fill the air with understated frivolity and playful notes, the faces of the artists impossibly stoic compared with the complexity of their craft, and then the muddied, overmodulated noise of the rest of Bourbon Street would press in like an unwanted neighbor coming to look in your refrigerator for a cold one.

As we sat in the Maison Bourbon Jazz Club we were made painfully aware of the difference between the raging torrent outside on the street and the serene eddy that slowly swirled here each time the band paused or ended a set. Across the street we could see people contorting in a Hip Hop Bar, behind us across Bourbon a steady raucous off beat noise from a karaoke bar threatened to melt the brass instruments in our club and force the drummer to open his eyes as he sat at his small drum kit. Unflinching in their craft though, the band murmured through their announcements of songs and played on in their quiet, smooth way.

On Bourbon there are many such bubbles or eddies to hide from the noise and enjoy a respite that soothes the senses rather than assault them. Step into the Inn on Bourbon, our hotel, and suddenly the prattle of Bourbon disappears. Our room overlooks the serene pool area, thankfully, though people pay twice the amount for a room on the street.

It is better to throw beads into the crowd that way...

Galatoire's is the same. It is next to a stripper's outfitters where a girl can get that much needed outfit after the last one was stolen by that creepy guy in the corner. But, step into the stately environs of this older restaurant on Bourbon is like entering an antebellum plantation. It is quiet and inviting and charming. Upon entering one is asked who their favorite waiter is, provided a suit jacket if one was not packed (ahem...) and caressed and eased through a wonderful experience that is much more than a meal, but an event. It is hard to believe Janet could easily purchase a foot long set of stilletto heels just next door. No, Galatoire's, with it's extensive menu and wine list and impeccable service.... ask for Rushell to be your waitress ... is perhaps the finest dining experience on Bourbon.

Try the Lamb Chops with Bernaise sauce....
Be kind to your waiters....
Drive safely... we're off to Grand Isle today....

love,
-greg